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We were able to spend the night in Dubai on our way back to the states. If I only had one word to describe it, I’d say “LARGE”. It’s just like what you see in the pictures, except for larger. The airport itself was phenomenal. I was just in awe with the technology they have in place (and maybe that’s because I was coming from the Zanzibar airport). Still, some of the technology they have in place was beyond what I’ve experienced in the states. I was glad to have stayed there, even if it was for only a night. Fun to see it in person! |
Category Archives: Travel
Mt Sabyinyo
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There are three main volcanoes near the town of Kisoro each between 10,000-13,000 feet high and the volcano that appealed to us the most was Mt Sabyinyo (whose summit marked the border between Uganda, Rwanda and the Congo). Mt Sabyinyo translates to mean “old mans teeth” and was given this name because the mountain had three separate jagged peaks which could look like an old man missing some teeth. Essentially, at the top we could be in three countries at once as well as say we’ve been in the Congo and Rwanda! Despite the 8-10 hour round trip and 4,000 ft elevation gain, we were convinced. This also meant another 5AM wake up call. |
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The roads up to the start of the hike were unpaved and extremely rocky, making a 10-minute drive turn into over an hour. By the time we arrived, we were ready to get started! We had two tour guides – Brian and Ellie (our armed security guard). and hit the trail at 7:37 am, knowing we were in for a long hike. The first hour and a half was fairly easy, a slight incline as we made our way to the base of the volcano. The annoying part was making our way through some very swampy areas. The deep muddy water was unavoidable and we had to slowly pick our way through the swamp. The soft ground made it easy to spot elephant and buffalo tracks which were all over the place. Fortunately, Ellie didn’t have to use his gun as we only heard the animals but did not see any. Below are pictures of our first glimpse of the Congo and Rwanda. |
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The lower part of the hike had some amazing dense bamboo forests. Once at the base of the volcano we were told things were about to get more difficult and we could see why. The trail now was going pretty much straight up, along a ridge that will take us to the first peak. It was about an hour and a half to the summit of the first peak and we probably gained 2,000 feet in elevation… At the top we could see the next two summits and could see the ladders that you had to climb to reach peak three (see pictures below). Along the way we had already used some of these ladders which were built out of sticks to help with steep sections. Peak 3 was pretty much all ladders since we had to go straight up to reach the top. This part was very scary for both of us. |
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While we were never that high off the ground, the ladders were built on a very narrow ridge with 1,000 foot drop offs on either side. To make things worse a few of the ladder steps were loose and would move just a little bit. Very unnerving considering the height. We made it to the top of peak 3 with our guide Brian at around 11:50 pm. My mom stayed back at Peak 1, she was very tired and was not up for the ladders and wisely stayed back with Ellie. It was one of the scariest things we have ever done. |
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At the top, we made sure to spend some time in each country and even had lunch in the Congo (hey! Now we can say we have been to Rwanda and the DRC!). We had great views looking out towards Rwanda but clouds had rolled in blocking our views of the Congo. Brian thought it was best that we start the hike down given the cloud coverage and his prediction turned out to be true. For 2 hours, we were pummeled by one of the biggest downpours I have ever seen. Soon the trail turned into a river and every inch of us was soaked. We even had hail, painful enough that we had to keep any bare skin protected. Unfortunately, this slowed our pace down and we didn’t make it back to the car until 4:10 pm, 8.5 hours in total and soaking wet. Still, it was one of the most rewarding mountains we’ve climbed. It was physically demanding, 8.5 hours, 4,000 ft elevation gain, and submitted 5 peaks in total. As I said, climbing those ladders was one of the scariest things we’ve done but it was worth it to see the amazing views and check two more countries off the list. We also had a great time with our guides, Brian and Ellie. Two very nice guys which really made the trip more enjoyable. We had never been more excited for a warm shower and decided not to climb another volcano the next day. Especially with our plan to watch the Super Bowl at 2:30 am which is all I will say about the Super Bowl. The next day we were exhausted and enjoyed a lovely afternoon on the lake — where our guides were canoeing and we were relaxing! |
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We loved Kisoro – wonderful little town in Uganda. |
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At this stage of our trip, 5AM wake up calls were becoming the norm. Today, after only two hours spent in the car, we arrived at Biwindi National Park for the gorilla trek. The drive to the visitor center was rough but took us through spectacular scenery (very similar to the road that took us to Kisoro); very steep drop offs, big mountains and lush green rainforest. It was amazing to see how much of the mountainside the locals are able to farm. Even on the steepest slopes, they have crops planted to the top. This area also gets very misty in the morning so we can see where the term “gorillas in the mist” came from. |
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Neither of us really knew what to expect for the gorilla trek. All what we were told was (1) it could take up to 8 hours to find them and (2) to bring a rain jacket. I (Rob) thought we would be in a big group and only see them from a long distance, but what ended up happening was the 30+ trekkers were broken up into 4 groups. Each group had a guide and a security guard with an AK47. The reason for the gun was to protect us from other animals, including elephants and buffalo which are known to charge at times. Even the gorillas could be unpredictable. It turns out each group hikes to their own family of gorillas (which is about 10 gorillas per family and up to 20 gorillas). Each family has 2-3 people following them on a daily basis to ensure the trekkers are able to see them. |
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So our group of 10 (including 2 guides) set off to go find our family of gorillas (interestingly, we found out later how many locals know the gorilla families and asked us which family we were following). Most of the hike was along a pretty nice trail through the rainforest. After about an hour our guide received word of where exactly the gorilla were located. This meant bush-whacking time. Our guides used big knife to start blazing a trail through the rainforest towards the location of the gorillas as we slowly followed behind, slipping and sliding down a steep embankment. Twenty minutes later, we saw our first silver back (a.k.a. THE KING OF THE JUNGLE). I couldn’t believe how close we could get!! |
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We got some amazing pictures and had over an hour with the wild gorillas. Even better, our guides said we were lucky to have such good views and were able to get so close. An amazing experience to say the least. |
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I found all this Gorilla information just fascinating. We learned a vast array of info from Gorilla Tours including: |
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Male Gorillas: |
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Female Gorillas: |
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Lifestyle: |
African Safari
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We entire drive towards Queen Elizabeth National Park was very pretty with lush green rolling hills and gorgeous houses (surprisingly)! We saw several huge tea plantations which were also beautiful. As we approached the park, we saw elephants off the road. |
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The bush lodge was pretty awesome and a step up from what we had experienced in Makondo; individual huts with screen walls and all over looked the river full of hippos. Can you imagine? We were able to see hippos from our balcony!! You could hear them splashing and making a barking noise all night. We were told not to leave the hut after dark unless we had a guide. The hippos and buffalo walk through the huts at night and can be dangerous. |
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We had dinner under the stars and by a campfire – just an amazing setting with a 4 course meal with lamb chops for the main. Stunning place to stay for a few nights! |
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The highlight of the morning safari was a lone make lion that we were able to get really close to. We took a boat cruise for part of the day that got us really close to tons of hippos, water buffalo, crocs, and many different kinds of birds. From the boat safari, our driver (Francis) picked us up from the boat safari and took us directly to or evening game drive. |
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The goal was simple, more lions. We drove back to the spot where we saw the lone male and spotted a kob that appeared to be under distress. Its ears were perked up and for some reason it kept sprinting away (Francis told us this was a sign that a lion or leopard was nearby). Both my mom and our driver agreed that something was wrong (check out the video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HgTvdupwsG8&feature=youtu.be). |
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Francis took the land rover off road (which can be an $150 fine if caught) to see if we could find what was bothering the kob. After driving around for a few minutes a leopard popped out from a bush right in front of us! It ran in front for a bit before going into a huge bush where it remained. Leopards are pretty rare and according to Francis, he has only seen them once or twice per year. We were lucky because Linds did a great job in getting a picture during all the panic (AND with a point-n-shoot!). |
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Later, we followed another jeep who had found a pride of lions. We were able to get close and had a solid 20-30 minutes of watching the female lions. In total, there were about 8-10 including cubs. We had a very successful safari that brought us water buffalo, kob, fish eagle ( and tons of other birds), monitor lizards, water buck, warthogs, hippos, crocs, baboons, verbet monkey, elephants, lions and the leopard. We saw four of the “big five” (elephant, leopard, lion, buffalo, rino), missing only the rino. |
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We started off the day the 10-hour drive to Kisoro with another game drive – this time on the opposite side of Queen Elizabeth National Park. After searching for about an hour, we found 5-6 male and female lions sleeping in a fig tree, very abnormal behavior for a lion. They are beautiful creatures! |
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We knew we had a long day of driving ahead but didn’t know we would be going under 30 mph most of the way on a rough 4WD road. The scenery was spectacular, steep jungle mountains, more tea plantations, but at this point we were unsure the drive was worth 10 hours in the car eating dust. In fact, the roads were so narrow that we almost had a head-on collision with another car. He was speeding around the corner and was clearly too far over on our side. Luckily, our overly cautious driver was going much slower and managed to miss the driver by inches. We finally made it to our hotel by 5:45, enough time for a shower, dinner, then early bed for our 6:00 am departure for the gorilla trek. |
Cape Town
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We left our apartment in Neutral Bay at 12:45PM Sydney time on Saturday and didn’t arrive at the hotel in Cape Town until 7PM Sydney time on Sunday (or 10AM local time) – over 30 hours worth of traveling! All in all, the trip went smoothly with the exception of a crying infant on the flight from Singapore to Joberg. And surprisingly, we weren’t too jet lagged on Sunday. In fact, we made the hike up to Lion’s Head that afternoon. |
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Cape Town has some unbelievable views – as can be seen during our hike up Lions Head. The hike took us two hours round trip and actually had some really steep parts where we had to scramble. It was worth it though as the 360 degree views were amazing. We decided to walk all the way back to the hotel after, which allowed us to see more of the city, and took another hour or so. |
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We ended the evening early but made it to Long Street for a beer and dinner. Long street is know as the main strip for night life, bars, clubs, etc. It was pretty dead since it was Sunday but still had a nice meal and cheap food/beer on a rooftop bar (there seemed to be more rooftop / second story bars and restaurants than there were on the main floor! Made for some fun pictures!!). Rob tried his first local beer called Stellenbach Lager and thought it was good!! |
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The next day – it was clear – the priority was the Broncos playoff game. Before leaving Australia, Rob made sure he knew exactly what time the Broncos would play and where we’d be. Luckily, we weren’t in the air but Rob insisted on waking up in the middle of the night to game-cast the game (the hotel didn’t have the game on so the best we could do is watch via game cast). Still, he was able to make the 5:30AM wake up call for our shark cage dive at Gansbaai – 2 1/2 hours southeast of the city. On the trek, we chatted with an English bloke who told us it was his second time in 3 days doing the dive (apparently, the first day wasn’t all the great in terms of visibility). This made me a bit worried but the day did little to disappoint. |
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Rob and I volunteered to dive first (for one – I was hoping to get it over with!) and, turns out, we were probably the group to stay in the water longest. There were 8 people in the cage at one time. As the instructor showed us (see pic above), we had to hold our breath when they yelled “Get down, get down!” and we had to make sure we grabbed the handle below. The crew would hang the bait right in front of the cage so the shark would swim right in front of us! |
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– Water temp: 17.8 C |
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Rob decided to go in twice and the second time was one of the best of the day! There two or three times when the sharks jumped out of the water right in front of him. Then the last pass of the day, the guide lead a shark right to the cage with the tuna head. The shark attacked the tuna head against the cage literally 4 inches from my (Rob) face. What a rush! Linds got a video here: http://youtu.be/ka8YtYWwJlQ. Here is another video while I was in the cage: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nWaTHYURThQ&feature=youtu.be. |
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South Africa is know for their meat selection and quality so later that evening we went to one of the top steak houses in town, The City Grill, at the Water Front. The Water Front is a really nice area on the water with tons of restaurants, bars, etc. Touristy but also very nice. |
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The meal didn’t disappoint and had some interesting tastings… ostrich, crocodile, venison sausage, chicken, springbok, and warthog. Our unanimous favorite was…ostrich?? It was really good and we did not expect ostrich to taste like that. We are loving the prices here especially after three years of Sydney prices. Beers are around $2-3, a bottle of wine at the nice restaurant was $11 and most meals about $5-$8. |
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Of course we couldn’t fly to South Africa without paying our respects to Nelson Mandela. We caught the 9am ferry to the famous Robben Island where Nelson Mandela was held as a political prisoner for 18 of his 27 years of his imprisonment. A 30 minute ferry ride took us from the Water Front to the island where we took a bus tour of the island followed by a tour inside the prison by a former inmate. The climax of the tour was seeing Mandela’s tiny cell where he spent 18 years of his life. |
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We also saw the limestone mine where they were forced to work doing meaningless tasks, moving rock piles from one side to another and back again. A lot of the prisoners had severe eye issues from working in the sun without any protection, primarily due to the reflection from the bright white rocks. Mandela had to have several eye operations after he was released and his tear ducts could no longer produce tears. |
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We learned a lot on the tour about Mandela, the Apartheid, and the history of South Africa in general. It helps that we are also listening to Mandela’s autobiography “A Long Walk to Freedom”. It is very easy to recognize how well he was loved. Considering he passed away last month (Dec 2013), the city has his name and picture everywhere. He comes up in most conversations with the locals – he was and is clearly loved by his country. |
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In the afternoon we decided to hike up Table Mountain, catch sunset, then take the cable car down. Table Mountain rises 3,500 feet directly above Cape Town and the hike was only 2km but with a 2,000 ft elevation gain. So basically straight up…the views from the top far exceeded my expectations and it was easy to see why this is one of the 7 natural wonders of the world. On the top we met two locals and talked to them for a good 20-30 minutes. They gave us a lot of good suggestions for Cape Town, Cape Point, and Stellenbosh. The sunset was easily the best I can remember with nearly 360 degrees of water surrounding us (we sat on a rock overlooking Camps Bay – see pic above). I was a little uneasy taking the cable car down, for part of it we were probably 1,000 feet off the ground but the view of the city at night was worth it. |
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**CAPE POINT** |
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One of the main attractions near by is Cape Point and the Cape of Good Hope. First stop was Camp Bay (viewed from on top of Table Mtn in the pictures above), a 15 min drive from Cape Town on the other side of Lions Head. It was an amazing beach with the mountains right behind us. From there we took the very scenic drive towards Cape Point to Boulders Beach, home to the largest colony of the endangered African Penguins. We were able to get up-close-and-personal as shown in the pic I got of Linds. |
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(Unfortunately we had to take our camera in to get fixed so we didn’t take too many pictures.. Some are from the iPhone or GoPro) |
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Another 30 minutes and we arrived at Cape Point and the Cape of Good Hope. The point represents the convergence of the warmer Indian Ocean currents with the colder Atlantic Ocean currents. However, we learned that this is not where the two oceans meet. That happens at the southernmost point of Africa, another 3 hours east. The Cape of Good Hope was a landmark early explorers used as they made their way around Africa. Once they hit the Cape of Good Hope they knew they were starting to head east. We did see a few NEW animal sightings!! Several baboons, a family of ostrich, and a lone elder. |
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We finished the day at Kalk Bay where we had dinner at Harbour House, one of the best seafood places in the Cape Town area. The best part was the location, we were right on the water and had an amazing ocean view at sunset. |
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Cape Town is such an amazing city! We HIGHLY recommend it to family and friends — there’s so much to do and see, we just didn’t have enough time to do it all!! All-in-all, we both agreed it’s one of our favorite (or favourite) cities we’ve visited to date :)! |
And we’re OFF!
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We spent one of the last few nights with some of our best friends in Sydney! Even better, our good friends Tom and Lynne (and Eliza!) were able to join in on the fun. My last day at work was Thursday – so several of my colleagues came out for a drink (see pic above) – then we met up with our other friends at (where else??) The Lord Nelson Brewery Hotel in the Rocks – a perfect place to start the farewell celebrations. |
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It was a sad day and extremely tough saying goodbye to such an amazing group of people, BUT we both know that we WILL be back someday soon and hope to have many of our Australian/British friends come visit us! Thanks again to all those who were able to come out for a farewell drink (unfortunately, I took out my camera a bit late and didn’t get one of everyone who was there…). |
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Sydney, Australia is certainly a city that will be greatly missed! |
Success!
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We had such a fabulous time during our 2 weeks in the states. Thank you to all of our family and friends for making our trip so wonderful! |
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It was a busy few weeks with an engagement party, 2 stunning mountain weddings, a Broncos game (Rob’s first ever regular season NFL game), a Rockies game (Todd Helton’s last home game)… |
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…plenty of day hikes in the mountains, walks and runs, golfing, story telling, Tim Tam Slams… |
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…birthday celebrations, brekky/lunch/dinner/coffee catch ups with friends, wedding venue ‘shopping’, shopping in general, alcoholic beverages, BBQs… |
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…minding the kids, awkward O’Keefe family photos (see below)… the list doesn’t stop…. But it was all worth it! All said and done, we stayed at 8 different places over the course of 16 days! A special thanks to The Ralph’s, Al, Jeremy, Maria, Kristen and The Schneider’s for giving us a pillow to sleep on during our time at home. |
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And thank you for those who made the trek to Ft Collins for our engagement party – during some of the worst flooding Colorado has seen in years. Luckily, the skies cleared and it turned out to be a lovely afternoon at The Ralph’s in FoCO!! Thanks for hosting, Mom/Mum/Maureen and Dad!!! |
Sam and Vaneesa
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We were lucky enough that two of my best friends had their weddings back to back weekends so we were able to make both of them. Another beautiful mountain wedding, this one in Vail at the Arabella Hotel. Sam had two roles in this wedding; groom and wedding planner and he nailed both of them. |
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Lots more babies around since last time we were home, that’s for sure! |
The Schneider’s Wedding
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Adam Schneider and Christie Hughes had their wedding at the amazing Park Hyatt Beaver Creek Resort and Spa. The entire weekend was spectacular; the Colorado fall colors were brilliant, the September weather was perfect and the people made the event that much more special. |
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They really went all out for this wedding. It was one of the larger weddings I have been to with over 250 guests including my mom and brother. The best part of the wedding was seeing all these guys who I haven’t seen in years. Although could have gone without seeing Birkel… |
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This was the first wedding I’ve been to that had a late night snack. Schneider and Christie were long gone before the snacks because they snuck out early. |
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They eventually kicked us out of the reception but not before we got a |
100 Year Storm
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We were able to spend a solid 14 days in the states – the most ever since we’ve left Colorado in November 2010 – and we were welcomed with more rain than what Colorado has seen in years. Interstate 25 was closed Thursday evening (Sept 12), 4 hours after we landed in Denver. We were likely the last car to drive down i-25 for the next 48 hours. News spread internationally – we were getting phone calls and emails from friends in Sydney asking about it! Crazy. My cousins in Boulder had their basement flooded (picutres below). |
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Comment from my Uncle Joe on September 13, 2013: All safe. Water in basement, but everything we cared about up and out. The family and neighbors were superstars. Came close to being unscathed, but not complaining in what they’re now calling a 500-year flood. I welcome the opportunity for focusing on what’s important, and redoing the basement with the boys and friends. Patrick Glynn will probably run the show with Lloyd Linnell acting as counsel. All photographs and disk drive safe. Even the LPs and old comic books. But most importantly, everyone is sleeping now, safe and sound. |
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Newspaper Headings: “Flood conditions stretched about 150 miles, from Colorado Springs north to Ft. Collins. Saturated soils left water with no place to go, and puddles turned to ponds throughout the densely populated Colorado Front Range. Rainwater swelled rivers and creeks, overtopped dams, flooded basements, and washed out roads. By September 16, authorities had confirmed six deaths, and more than 1,000 people remained missing.” |
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“President Barack Obama first declared a state of emergency for Boulder, El Paso, and Larimer counties, with an additional 12 counties added September 16: Adams, Arapahoe, Broomfield, Clear Creek, Denver, Fremont, Jefferson, Morgan, Logan, Pueblo, Washington and Weld counties.” |
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“The event ‘was likely a 100-year flood (or more accurately: a 1% probability per year flood),’ the report states, and that all-time record or near-record precipitation was recorded during the week of Sept. 9-15 across the Front Range.” |
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The downpour that inundated parts of Colorado this month was a once-in-a-millennium event for those areas, according to an analysis by the National Weather Service. |
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Fortunately, we were still able to enjoy what Colorado is typically known for: the sun & Broncos sunsets! Despite the chaos with the weather, it was good to be home again. |
Long Weekend in Port Stephens / Hunter Valley (again)
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For Christmas my dad got Linds and I a voucher that included: para-sailing, sand boarding and whale watching. This was a great excuse to get back to Port Stephens which was the first holiday destination Linds and I went to 2 years ago when she first arrived. |
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On the way back from Port Stephens, we made an overnight stop in Hunter Valley where I used another voucher for a free round of golf @ the Vintage (while Linds was busy fishing the keys out of the locked car). It was a beautiful day – thanks Pops!! |
Australian Open
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We splurged on tickets to the Men’s Semi-Final match at the Australian Open and the weekend did little to disappoint! We purchased tickets well before Sara decided to come visit and (luckily) there were still enough left to buy her one as well. The downside was 1 person had to sit apart. We decided to rotate seats every set which turned out to be somewhat annoying since the seats weren’t all that close. Even worse, the single seat was just behind a giant (see picture below)! |
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The 5-set match was the best of the tournament. Andy Murray vs Roger Federer. Federer/Murray 4-6, 7-6, 3-6, 7-6, 2-6. Murray took the last set after a 4+ hour match! Stats: Murray and Federer have played 20 times to date with Murray winning 11 times. But Murray only has 2 Grand Slam titles (and one Gold medal) vs Federer’s 17 (an all-time lead in titles)! |
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We decided to buy ground stadium tickets for the final – which involved watching the final match on a big screen just outside the stadium. We had a number of our friends join us; including Keth, Will, Annie, Geoff and the kid-Os! It was a lovely evening with an enthusiastic crowd!! |
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During one of our free days, we rented a car and drove ~3 hours southeast of Melbourne to the Mornington Peninsula. We saw an echidna (curious? check out this youtube video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dQEU32TjRWg) and the location of where the Prime Minister of Australia at the time, Harold Holt, was never to be seen again after going for a swim and drowning (Year: 1967). |
S. Steele
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We had the privilege of hosting another great friend – Sara Steele! The first day she got to Sydney, we did the Neutral Bay to Chowder Bay hike (and it was our very first guest to take on the walk since we discovered it long after we moved to Neutral Bay). This walk connects two of Mosman’s beaches – Balmoral Beach and Clifton Gardens – and after reading more about the area, it is very much connected with the early history of Sydney. For more than a century many of these areas were used to maintain gun emplacements to defend Sydney from invaders, until the land was released to the public in 1995, and reborn as part of Sydney Harbour National Park. It truly is a magnificent walk and has spectacular views! The picture below is taken at Bradley’s Head. |
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Part of our ‘tour of Sydney’ wouldn’t be complete without spending an afternoon at Jack and Tim’s flat in Paddington. We brought out the red cups and made it a complete college flash-back, playing flip cup (or “flippy cup”)! We also introduced Sara to her first EVER lawn bowls match – she turned out to be pretty good beating me and almost tying Rob. |
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To end the short time Sara spent in Sydney (before we left for Melbourne), we went out with the girls to Centennial Park. The city puts up an outdoor theatre during the summer months – which includes bean bag chairs, pillows and popcorn! |
Phuket, Thailand
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Fun Facts about Phuket, Thailand: |
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We went to a Brazilian BBQ which included an all-you-can-eat meat feast! One of the items on the menu was crocodile – something no one at the table had tried before. Rob and Jer thought it tasted like chicken, but Linds felt a bit differently. The best part was the entire meal totaled $30 per person – our most expensive meal of the entire trip, including the meal where we got ripped off in Hanoi! It all tasted delicious! |
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Everyone was keen on seeing elephants up close (a native animal to the area); however once we arrived at the local tourist attraction, it was clear the animals were not treated well. As an example, some baby elephants were chained to posts and trainers used a metal hook to keep them in line. Despite the cruelty, we learned how smart these animals really are and how well you can train them. It was still very fascinating. |
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The entire trip was a whirlwind. It went so fast, but we would’ve done it all over again. As the picture shows we hit 6 cities and 4 countries in a matter of 2 1/2 weeks – a very well thought out and planned trip! VERY happy to have JR and some friends from Sydney join us on the excursion. |
Koh Phi Phi Island
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Fun Facts about Koh Phi Phi Island: |
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We spent New Year’s Eve on the island and prior to going out for the evening, we were chatting with the bar tender at our hotel. He was telling us his accounts of the 2004 Asian Tsunami. At the time, he was working at a hotel restaurant which was located in the middle of town. When the first wave came in, it flooded the entire place (up to around his hips) then eventually the water swept back into the sea. He immediately knew at that stage it was a Tsunami and ran towards the biggest hill in town. Unfortunately, several of the customers he was serving did not and wandered back to the beach to see what was happening. He recalled being very scared for his wife specifically since he had no way of getting a hold of her. Several days later they reconnected, but the island was destroyed. |
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We learned from other people that in some regards the Tsunami was a good thing for the island due to all the disease and mold that had developed over decades. Today, there are clear signs of where to run in case of a Tsunami (even a building lookout). |
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Fun Facts about Koh Phi Phi Island: |
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We went for a long hike to the tallest point of the island (which was directly above our hotel). The views were spectacular! Along the way there were very few houses, but when there were the property was full of chickens, goats, monkeys and other animals. |
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One of the popular activities was renting a long-tail boat with a guide to take you around the neighboring islands. We rented one for the afternoon and the agenda included a stop at an uninhabited, remote island with some of the most amazing beaches. We spent the better part of the afternoon enjoying lunch, a few beverages and the water. The next stop was snorkeling – the place where JR pulled off a front flip dive off the boat. It was the only day where the weather was slightly wet and the seas were rough, but we still had a great time! |
Ha Long Bay
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After spending several days in Hanoi, we took a short overnight detour to Ha Long Bay (after recommendations from several friends and colleagues in Sydney) which is where we celebrated Christmas Eve Day. Ha Long Bay is about a 3 hour drive east of Hanoi and is made up of thousands of tiny islands. |
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It was the first time many of us had taken an overnight cruise. The boat had 3 rooms that could sleep about 10 people + the crew – a bar tender, a chef, a captain and a tour guide. They certainly made us feel welcome by decorating the boat with Christmas trees and lights and, of course, a welcome beverage upon arrival (you’ll quickly learn that this is a common theme in this part of the world)! |
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The Christmas Eve dinner was spectacular! If I remember correctly, we had 9 courses with close to every type of seafood imaginable. The chef was even catching fish off the boat earlier that day – talk about fresh! Rob gave it a shot but never managed to catch anything. |
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Prior to serving each dish, our tour guide would introduce it as if it were the next person on stage at a concert. We would all applaud and laugh along. During one of the introductions the chef brought out a boat carved out from a watermelon (see picture below). He had spent the better part of the day carving it out – just for decoration!! He did something similar but carved it as an eagle… Pretty amazing work. |
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Fun Facts about Ha Long Bay: |
John McCain’s Account of Vietnam
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I found John McCain’s story about his POW experience in Hanoi, Vietnam very interesting. The below story is extracted from Faith of My Fathers by John McCain. |
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…I knew I was hit. My A-4 aircraft, travelling at about 900km/h, was spiralling violently to Earth. I reacted automatically the moment I took the hit, reached up and pulled the ejection seat handle. I struck part of the aircraft, breaking my left arm, my right arm in three places and my right knee, and was briefly knocked unconscious. Witnesses said my chute had barely opened before I plunged into the shallow water of Truc Bach Lake. Wearing about 25kg of gear, I touched the bottom of the lake and kicked off with my good leg. I did not feel any pain as I broke the surface and I did not understand why I couldn’t move my arms to pull the toggle on my life vest. I sank to the bottom again. When I broke the surface the second time, I managed to inflate my life vest by pulling the toggle with my teeth. Then I blacked out again. When I came to the second time, I was being hauled ashore on bamboo poles. A crowd of several hundred Vietnamese gathered around me, stripping my clothes off, spitting on me and kicking and striking me. When they had finished removing my gear and clothes, I felt a sharp pain in my right knee. I looked down and saw that my right foot was resting next to my left knee at a 90 degree angle. I cried out: “My God, my leg!” Someone smashed a rifle butt into my shoulder, breaking it. Someone else stuck a bayonet in my ankle and groin. A woman, who may have been a nurse, managed to dissuade the crowd from further harming me. She then applied bamboo splints to my leg and right arm. It was with some relief that I noticed an army truck arrive on the scene. The soldiers placed me on a stretcher, loaded me into the truck and drove a few blocks to the French-built prison, Hoa Lo, which the PoWs had named the Hanoi Hilton. As the massive steel doors clanked shut behind me, I felt a deeper dread than I have ever felt since. The date was October 26, 1967. I was 31 and a lieutenant commander in the US Navy when I was shot down. For two centuries, the men of my family were raised to go to war as officers in America’s armed services. I was the son and grandson of Navy officers and my father trusted that when I met with adversity, I would use the example he had set. The soldiers took me into an empty cell, set me down on the floor still on the stretcher and placed a blanket over me. For the next few days, I drifted in and out of consciousness. My interrogators accused me of being a war criminal and demanded military information. They knocked me around a little and I began to feel sharp pains in my fractured limbs. I blacked out after the first few blows. I thought if I could hold out, they would relent and take me to a hospital. But on the fourth day, I realised my condition had become more serious. I was feverish and losing consciousness for longer periods. I was lying in my vomit and other bodily wastes, and my knee had become grossly swollen and discoloured. The medic, called Zorba, took my pulse. “Are you going to take me to the hospital?” I asked. “No,” he replied. “It’s too late.” Panic that death was approaching overtook me: the Vietnamese usually refused treatment to the seriously injured. Blessedly, I lapsed into unconsciousness. I was awakened a short while later when the camp officer, a mean son of a bitch called Bug, rushed excitedly into my cell. “Your father is a big admiral,” he shouted. “Now we take you to the hospital.” God bless my father. It was hard not to see how pleased they were to have captured an admiral’s son and I knew my father’s identity was directly related to my survival. I was moved to a hospital in central Hanoi. Coming to a couple of days later, I found myself lying in a filthy room, lousy with mosquitoes and rats. Every time it rained, mud and water would pool on the floor. No one had even bothered to wash the grime off me. I began to recover my wits and my interrogators came to the hospital to resume their work. The beatings were of short duration because I let out a hair-raising scream when they occurred and my interrogators appeared concerned that hospital personnel might object. Eventually I gave them my ship’s name and squadron number. When asked to identify future targets, I recited the names of north Vietnamese cities that had already been bombed. In early December, they operated on my leg, severing all the ligaments on one side of my knee, which has never fully recovered. In late December, they decided to discharge me. I had a high fever and suffered from dysentery. I had lost about 25kg and weighed barely 45kg. I was still in a chest cast and my leg hurt like hell. I was blindfolded, placed in the back of a truck and driven to a prison called The Plantation. To my great relief I was placed in a cell with two other prisoners, Air Force majors “Bud” Day and Norris Overly. There has never been a doubt that Bud and Norris saved my life. They later said their first impression of me, emaciated, bug-eyed and bright with fever, was of a man at the threshold of death. They thought the Vietnamese expected me to die and had placed me in their care to escape the blame when I failed to recover. Bud had been seriously injured when he ejected. After he was captured, he had attempted an escape and had almost reached an American airfield before he was recaptured. His captors had looped rope around his shoulders, tightened it until his shoulders were almost touching, and then hung him by the arms from the rafter of the torture room, tearing his shoulders apart. Left in this condition for hours, Bud never acceded to Vietnamese demands for military information. They had to break his already broken right arm a second time, and threaten to break the other, before Bud gave them anything at all. Because of his injuries, Bud was unable to help with my physical care. Norris, a gentle, uncomplaining guy, cleaned me up, fed me and helped me on to the bucket that served as our toilet. Thanks to them, I began to recover. Soon I was able to stand unaided and even manoeuvre around my cell on a pair of crutches. In April 1968, Bud was relocated to another prison. Norris had been released under an “amnesty” and I would remain in solitary confinement for more than two years. Though I could manage to hobble around on my crutches, I was in poor shape. I couldn’t pick up or carry anything. The dysentery caused me considerable discomfort: food and water would pass immediately through me, and sharp pains in my stomach made sleeping difficult. It’s an awful thing, solitary. It crushes your spirit and weakens your resistance more effectively than any other form of mistreatment. Having no one else to seek counsel from, you begin to doubt your judgment and courage. The first few weeks are the hardest. The onset of despair is immediate, and it is a formidable foe. I reconstructed from memory books and movies I had enjoyed. I tried to compose books and plays of my own, acting out sequences in the solitude of my cell. I had to carefully guard against my fantasies becoming so consuming that they took me permanently to a place in my mind from which I might never return. My cell was directly across the courtyard from the interrogation room. It had a wooden board for a bed and a naked light bulb dangling on a cord in the ceiling. The light was on 24 hours a day. Adding to our discomfort was the building’s tin roof, which must have increased the summer heat by five or more degrees. In mid-June 1968, the camp commander, over an inviting spread of biscuits and cigarettes, asked me if I would like to go home. I wanted to say yes: I was tired and sick and I was afraid. But the Code of Conduct was explicit: “American prisoners cannot accept parole or amnesty or special favours.” I said I would think about it. I knew how my release would affect my father and my fellow prisoners, and I discovered later what the Vietnamese hoped to gain. On July 4, my father had become Commander in Chief, Pacific. The Vietnamese intended to hail his arrival with a propaganda spectacle, releasing his son as a gesture of “goodwill”. For almost two months, nothing happened. Then the punishment sessions began. I was hauled into an empty room and kept there for four days. At intervals, the guards returned to administer beatings. One guard held me while the others pounded away. They cracked several of my ribs and broke a couple of teeth. Weakened by beatings and dysentery, with my right leg again almost useless, I found it impossible to stand. On the third night I lay in my blood and waste, so tired and hurt that I could not move. Three guards lifted me to my feet and gave me the worst beating yet. They left me lying on the floor moaning from the stabbing pain in my re-fractured arm. Despairing of any relief from pain and further torture, I tried to take my life. After several unsuccessful attempts, I managed to stand. Up-ending the waste bucket, I stepped on it, bracing myself against the wall with my good arm. I looped my shirt through the shutters. As I looped it around my neck, a guard saw the shirt through the window, pulled me off the bucket and beat me. Later, I made a second, feebler attempt at suicide. On the fourth day, I gave up. I signed a confession that “I am a black criminal and I have performed the deeds of an air pilot”. The guards ordered me to record my confession on tape. I refused, and was beaten until I consented. Those were the worst two weeks of my life. I shook, as if my disgrace was a fever and no one would ever look on me again except in pity or contempt. The Vietnamese never seemed to mind hurting us, but they usually took care not to put our lives in danger. We strongly believed that some PoWs were tortured to death and most were seriously mistreated. One man, Dick Stratton, had huge infected scars on his arms from rope torture. His thumbnails had been torn off and he had been burned with cigarettes. However, the Vietnamese prized us as bargaining chips in peace negotiations and they usually did not intend to kill us when they used torture to force our co-operation. By the end of 1969, routine beatings had almost stopped. We occasionally received extra rations. Our circumstances would never be as dire as they had been in those early years. I was released and flown home at the end of the war, in March 1973. I had been incarcerated for 5 1/2 years. — John McCain |
Hanoi, Vietnam
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Vietnam was my favorite place to visit. For starters, the hotel we stayed at was rated 5 stars and it wasn’t necessarily due to the unbelievable brekkie (although that certainly helped). The staff treated us like we were Will and Kate… like royalty. Every time we approached the hotel, they would kindly open the door and ask about our day. They even greeted us with a beverage upon arrival and made sure we left our bags for them to carry. |
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Brekkie was unreal. We had an array of unlimited freshly squeezed juice, coffee, eggs, pancakes, toast, poh soup and – most importantly – unlimited FREE WIFI! |
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Did you know? |
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– According to PricewaterhouseCoopers, Hanoi will be the fastest growing city in the world in terms of GDP growth from 2008 to 2025. |
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I bet you knew… |
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– Scooters were EV..E.RY.Wh.E.R…e. (It’s like trying to play leap frog but the cost of getting hit is much more severe). |
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– We, Americans, towered over every single person in sight. Even the tables on the street were too small for us to sit. These kind of tables were very common on the compact streets of Hanoi, but it certainly made for good people watching! |
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The only minor setback we had was during our last meal in Hanoi. Vietnamese people were always trying to get us to eat at their restaurant or buy their water, their clothing, their goods or anything else they were selling. Since we were in a bit of a rush to catch our ride to the airport, a restaurant owner easily persuaded us to sit down and order the BBQ’d beef for 3 people. After finishing our meal, the owner pulled out his cell phone, calculated the total, and hesitantly said we owed 1,000,000 Vietnamese Dong (or about 50 USD). If we hadn’t just spent the last 3-4 days there, we probably wouldn’t have noticed much of anything. But considering we had a similar meal the day before for about 1/10th the price and, more importantly, we had very little dong left to spend (our next stop was Cambodia), we weren’t too happy. Jeremy and I argued with the owner while Rob went back to the ATM to get additional dong out. He wouldn’t budge. |
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I guess we learned our lesson.. Always ask for a menu or the price first before eating. |
Kristen’s HERE
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I was lucky enough to have another good friend come visit me in Sydney! Somehow, Kristen and I managed to coordinate our schedules so we were flying back to the states together (with a few minor stops along the way – in Melbourne and Auckland, New Zealand). |
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I’ve put together a short video of our trip: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m6TfzO5EgEc |
Rad-elaide
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Linds surprised me with a trip to Adelaide, South Australia on the Queens birthday long weekend. All along I thought we were going to Berry but then she had me open an early present with Megan and Innes which (after opening several individually wrapped boxes within boxes) ended up being our plane tickets. |
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Adelaide was a nice country town but my favorite part was our wine tour in one of South Australia’s most famous wine regions, McLaren Vale. Unlike Hunter Valley, some of the vineyards were right on the ocean. |








































































































































































