Tanzania Safari

Kind of strangely, Duma called our safari company to saying we wanted Isaac to be our guide for the rest of the trip. Isaac was the driver who took us to Mt Meru and all we said to Duma was it was nice that he was driving faster than our previous safari guide, Francis. We assumed that Duma was just doing a favor for his buddy but learned after the fact that he had just met Isaac the same day we did.

Anyway, Isaac picked us up at 9:00 am and we started the two hour drive to Tarangire National Park. It was a much smoother drive, only small segments of dirt road. Along the drive, we passed through a number of Maasai villages. The Maasai still live in very simple mud and straw huts, they are nomadic, and still wear simple robes. The robes are always red or blue. Issac told us that many years ago the Maasai moved to east Africa from the Sudan. They were attacked by crocodile as they crossed the Nile so the red represents the blood that was shed and blue represents the Nile River.

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We spent about 4 hours driving through the park and saw a ton of animals. Some of the highlights were: spending about 15 minutes right in the middle of a heard of about 40 elephants, seeing several giraffes up close for the first time, a lone female lion looking like she was about to make a kill, and another leopard. We were very lucky to see another leopard, although this one was not as dramatic as Queen Elizabeth National Park. We also saw a lot of ostrich, warthog, elephants, impala, and zebra.

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We spent the night at the Tarangire Safari Lodge, which was amazing and by far our favorite thus far. The views from the lounge/ bar/ restaurant area was spectacular! Similar to the Queen Elizabeth Bush Lodge in Uganda, we had to be escorted to and from our room at night because of animals. We saw a lot of birds and monkeys but no big animals at the lodge.

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A two hour drive took us to the gates of Ngorongoro Conservation area, at the base of the outside of the crater. While this was not our destination for the day, we did have to drive through to get to where we were going. This gave us a sneak peak of Ngorongoro Crater via a lookout point where we stopped to take a few photos. Absolutely stunning views of the crater which made us excited to drive down in two days. Our first stop was another hour down the road, Oldupai Gorge, home of the earliest recorded human fossils.

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To get there we drove through some amazing green valleys, and a number of Massai villages. Again, Linds and I were overwhelmed by how traditional they still live. As we got closer to Oldupai the landscape started to open up and flatten out and we started to see more and more zebra, wildebeest, Thompson gazelle, and giraffe.

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We both found Oldupai Gorge very interesting. There was a museum where we learned about the history and then caught a quick lecture by one of the staff. The main attraction were 2-3 sets of footprints of man, woman and child dated back to 3.6 million years ago. While we couldn’t see the actual footprints (we saw a replica of it), the sight was not far away. The footprints were preserved so well by volcanic ash which can have a chemical reaction, turning to cement. Just before the volcano erupted some 3.6 million year ago, the family walked in the path shown below. In addition to the footprints, this gorge is home to hundreds of other fossils, and is still actively excavated today.

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We made our way towards Ndutu where we were stayed at the Ndutu Safari Lodge. This was located at the start of the Serengeti and we could see why this translates to “endless plane”. Soon we were completely surrounded by animals as far as the eye could see (which included thousands of wildebeests, zebras and gazelle). This was part of the great migration they go through every year where millions of them follow the rain patterns, literally towards greener pastures. A very cool experience and one of my favorite drives of the trip. Later, we saw another male lion, giraffe, and elephant.

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Home was at Ndutu Safari Lodge where we had individual cabin right on the edge of open space. I heard lions roaring early in the morning; although Linds didn’t believe me until two other couples confirmed they heard the noises as well! Very cool experience!

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After a quick drive through Ndutu we made our way back onto the plane and into the massive heard. The entrance to Serengeti National park was not too far away where we stopped briefly at the front gate. We made our way to our lodge for the night (primarily so they could start our Mt Meru laundry!). The lodge was very impressive and had the best facilities we have had so far. It was built into the rocks and had a lot of animals around.

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The highlight of the afternoon game drive was a close encounter with a leopard. Isaac got us right under the tree it was sleeping in and we were lucky enough to see it wake up and walk down the tree right in front of us. We were literally feet away and got an awesome video. We saw 3 leopards that day which was very rare we were told. We also saw a cheetah and several more lions.

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Best part about it – we were able to catch it on video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tMpNX_ZrUl0&feature=youtu.be). One of the most amazing parts was the moment as the leopard was walking away. You could hardly see the shape of their body within a matter of feet, since the leopard blended easily into the grasses of the Serengeti. By the fourth picture, you couldn’t even see him – yet he was only 20 yards away!! Truly amazing!

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We made our way towards Ngorongoro Crater for our last day of safari. On the way, we saw two hyenas eating a freshly killed wildebeest which was really cool (video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=24XdcksOKTU&feature=youtu.be). In terms of beautiful scenery, Ngorongoro was by far both of our favorites! From the top of the crater you can see the perfectly shaped crater and the steep walls that create the bowl.

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On the crater floor you are surrounded by animals: zebra, lions, elephant, hippos, buffalo, flamingos, and the highlight of the day, rhino. We ended up seeing all of the “African Big Five” – rhino, elephant, buffalo, lion, and leopard. Isaac told us we were very lucky to have even seen one rhino, let alone five! We were able to catch a video (http://youtu.be/dT1INpEqnes) – According to Isaac, this particular rhino was interested in passing the road we were on but could smell that we were there. In other words, a rhino’s vision is very poor but their smell is extremely powerful.

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I also got some good pictures of a guy with the biggest camouflage lens I had ever seen. It was hilarious.

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African Safari

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We entire drive towards Queen Elizabeth National Park was very pretty with lush green rolling hills and gorgeous houses (surprisingly)! We saw several huge tea plantations which were also beautiful. As we approached the park, we saw elephants off the road.

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The bush lodge was pretty awesome and a step up from what we had experienced in Makondo; individual huts with screen walls and all over looked the river full of hippos. Can you imagine? We were able to see hippos from our balcony!! You could hear them splashing and making a barking noise all night. We were told not to leave the hut after dark unless we had a guide. The hippos and buffalo walk through the huts at night and can be dangerous.

We had dinner under the stars and by a campfire – just an amazing setting with a 4 course meal with lamb chops for the main. Stunning place to stay for a few nights!

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The highlight of the morning safari was a lone make lion that we were able to get really close to. We took a boat cruise for part of the day that got us really close to tons of hippos, water buffalo, crocs, and many different kinds of birds. From the boat safari, our driver (Francis) picked us up from the boat safari and took us directly to or evening game drive.

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The goal was simple, more lions. We drove back to the spot where we saw the lone male and spotted a kob that appeared to be under distress. Its ears were perked up and for some reason it kept sprinting away (Francis told us this was a sign that a lion or leopard was nearby). Both my mom and our driver agreed that something was wrong (check out the video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HgTvdupwsG8&feature=youtu.be).

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Francis took the land rover off road (which can be an $150 fine if caught) to see if we could find what was bothering the kob. After driving around for a few minutes a leopard popped out from a bush right in front of us! It ran in front for a bit before going into a huge bush where it remained. Leopards are pretty rare and according to Francis, he has only seen them once or twice per year. We were lucky because Linds did a great job in getting a picture during all the panic (AND with a point-n-shoot!).

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Later, we followed another jeep who had found a pride of lions. We were able to get close and had a solid 20-30 minutes of watching the female lions. In total, there were about 8-10 including cubs. We had a very successful safari that brought us water buffalo, kob, fish eagle ( and tons of other birds), monitor lizards, water buck, warthogs, hippos, crocs, baboons, verbet monkey, elephants, lions and the leopard. We saw four of the “big five” (elephant, leopard, lion, buffalo, rino), missing only the rino.

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We started off the day the 10-hour drive to Kisoro with another game drive – this time on the opposite side of Queen Elizabeth National Park. After searching for about an hour, we found 5-6 male and female lions sleeping in a fig tree, very abnormal behavior for a lion. They are beautiful creatures!

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We knew we had a long day of driving ahead but didn’t know we would be going under 30 mph most of the way on a rough 4WD road. The scenery was spectacular, steep jungle mountains, more tea plantations, but at this point we were unsure the drive was worth 10 hours in the car eating dust. In fact, the roads were so narrow that we almost had a head-on collision with another car. He was speeding around the corner and was clearly too far over on our side. Luckily, our overly cautious driver was going much slower and managed to miss the driver by inches. We finally made it to our hotel by 5:45, enough time for a shower, dinner, then early bed for our 6:00 am departure for the gorilla trek.